Chestnuts, a marathon and walks between showers
If you’re heading to Porto in November — or you’re already here — bring a waterproof jacket, comfortable shoes with a good grip, and something warm for the evenings. Daytime temperatures are usually around 17°C, dropping to about 9°C at night. Sunglasses will come in handy. So will a raincoat. Sometimes within the same hour.
The month starts with a public holiday you might not have planned for. Halloween is on 31 October, followed by All Saints’ Day: 1 November is a public holiday in Portugal. Before heading to a museum or going shopping, check the opening hours — they might have their own spooky plans.
On 8 November, Porto Marathon runners will have their own plans for the city. We’re hardly fitness gurus ourselves — although we do have high-protein options on the menu, like our Tuna Tataki Bowl and Tofu Omelette. Still, you can run the full marathon, go for 10 km, join the 6 km run or walk, or simply cheer everyone on.
We’re choosing that last option. Preferably with a coffee or some mulled wine, which is making its way onto our menu. Even if running isn’t on your itinerary, check the organiser’s website: the route and road closures could affect how you get around.
After the marathon, it’s time for another November sport: eating chestnuts. 11 November is São Martinho, or St Martin’s Day, but the chestnuts and young wine aren’t limited to just one day. Throughout the month, local communities and associations hold magustos — gatherings with roasted chestnuts, conversation and food shared around the table.
You don’t need to find a celebration to get your chestnuts, though. In November, you’ll regularly spot street vendors tending their smoking braziers. Follow the smoke and grab a paper cone — one of Porto’s few familiar street-food options. It doubles as a hand warmer. Restaurants get into the season too, with seasonal specials, heartier dishes and hot soups. Alongside the regular menu, look out for sugestões da época — seasonal recommendations.
If the sun comes out between chestnuts and lunch, head to Jardins do Palácio de Cristal. There are paths through the greenery and views over the Douro worth putting your phone away for — before taking it out again, of course. Go while it’s light and let the forecast help you choose your moment. In November, “I think the rain’s stopped” is a perfectly reasonable way to plan a walk.
If you spoke too soon, head to Casa Marta Ortigão Sampaio. This small museum brings together paintings, jewellery, furniture and everyday objects from a wealthy Porto family, including works by Aurélia de Souza. A good chance to swap wet cobblestones for a quiet wander through the galleries. You’ll find it at Rua de Nossa Senhora de Fátima, 291–299, usually open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 am to 5:30 pm. It takes Mondays off — check the current opening hours before visiting. It’s a slightly different kind of museum: intimate and away from the bigger tourist crowds. And we’re guessing you’ve already ticked off Livraria Lello and São Bento station.
When you get hungry, there’s Eatery 119, of course — our all-day brunch café in central Porto, serving specialty coffee, house-made desserts and signature dishes inspired by Ukrainian cuisine. Whether you’re stopping for breakfast, brunch or lunch, here’s how we’d fit a visit into a November day.
Coming by between 9 and 11 am? Start with cottage cheese crêpes and a hot specialty coffee, then decide which way to wander. Weekends can get busy, so you may need to wait a little for a table — usually around 5–10 minutes.
For a warming lunch in Porto, drop in between noon and 3 pm for varenyky — Ukrainian dumplings filled with potato and mushroom or beef. Add some mulled wine, especially if November’s weather has already shown you what it can do. And between 3 and 5 pm, settle in for a slice of our house-made medovyk honey cake and a cappuccino. You can check the forecast after dessert — the rain probably won’t take it personally.
For chestnuts, head outside. For a proper lunch or a little rain-watching, head to Eatery 119.
